Author: Unknown.

I'm not an experienced wrench, but I just did this job myself. I bought all the bearings but only installed the front since the back seems okay at this point. I will do it soon though. I'll offer some pointers that I wish I had known before:

Use a needle nose pliers to grab the edge of the grease / dust seals and pull them off, rather than trying to pry them off from underneath as shown in the Haynes manual. I dinged up the wheel by using a screwdriver.

When you get the seals off and begin to hammer out the bearings, note that there is more of an edge at one end of the spacer than at the other end. (The spacer fills the gap between the two bearings.) Find this edge by sticking your finger in past the bearing and feeling the bearing / spacer joint. Try to push the end of the spacer towards the wheel rim. Then do the same on the other end. Which ever end gives you the most play, therefore the greater bearing surface to hammer on, that end should be driven out first. You need to stick something long down through the hub, from the opposite end, and have it catch that edge of the bearing to drive it out. Don't try to use a long screwdriver to catch that little edge - you'll ruin the screwdriver and possibly the spacer as well. I used a long bolt (10-11 inches) for this purpose after ruining a screwdriver on the first end. A few good taps with the hammer, then rotate around the bearing 90 degrees.at a time, until it comes out. Once you get the first bearing out, the spacer will fall out and the bearing on the other end is a cinch, as you'll have almost the entire bearing surface to hammer on. Use a good heavy hammer - I started with a wooden hammer to soften the blows but it wasn't heavy enough to knock the bearings out.

While you're doing all this, you're getting the new bearings ready by putting them in the freezer. The sooner the better. Once you've got everything out, and cleaned up, you're ready to drive the new bearings in. It will go a little easier if you use a hair dryer to warm up the hub, then take the bearing out of the freezer and drive it home. Even with the frozen bearing and warm hub it's a tight fit. Make sure you hammer only on the outer race of the new bearings (the shiny part at the outer edge). Some guys have used a large socket for this purpose; others have put the old bearing on top of the new one, and used it as a buffer. I did this, then when the new bearing dropped below the outer edge of the hub I finished the job using the aforementioned bolt and just made sure it was only contacting the outer race. Tap it in going in circles a little at a time, you can tell when it hits bottom because there isn't any more "give". Then install the new grease / dust seal. Again I used the old bearing and some light taps of the hammer to make sure it was all the way in. Repeat on the other end - remember on the speedo drive end, you put the bearing in, then the speedo-drive thingie, then the dust seal. When you re-install the wheel, make sure the two tabs on the speedo drive thingie are at 90 degrees from the plastic tabs in the speedo drive gearbox. A basic precaution - set the wheel rim on some 2x4's so it's not resting on the brake rotor. This should be obvious but you never know.... :) Let me add, DON'T FORGET TO RE-INSERT THE SPACER BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE OTHER SIDE!!!!!